||HOUSING & CARE
Goats do not like to get wet and hate the rain and snow so it is
important to offer your goat some sort of enclosure that will shelter
them from wet weather and wind. A structure in the same form as a
dog house but without the bottom will work just fine. Goats love to
play and enjoy anything they can climb on and jump of off, so
remember to build your structure safe to climb on or tall enough
your goat is unable to get onto it at all. Attach some sort of
running area using at least 4'high fencing(the taller the better).
This will keep your goat in and predators out. It will also provide
the fresh air and exercise your goat needs. I never tether my goats!
It prevents them from getting away from a loose dog or other
predators. This may result in your goat being seriously injured or
even killed. If not watched closely they may also get tangled in
their line and it may be too late before they are untangled.
Pygmy Goats do not make good weed eaters or ditch bank goats. They are simply too small and too finicky about
what they eat and drink. Goats will not drink dirty water or soiled food and rarely do I see mine eating weeds.
Feed a good amount of high quality alfalfa/grass hay. Do not feed hay that has molded, goats can not tolerate mold
and will become sick. Use some sort of hay manger to keep the hay off the ground and from becoming trampled and
soiled. This will help minimize wasted hay. In the summer, hay can be replaced with pasture grass.
Unless breeding or showing, grain (I use Purina Goat Chow) makes a good treat but is not necessary in a goats diet
and can easily be over fed. 1/4 to 1/2 C daily is plenty.
Salt and trace minerals are a very important part of a goats diet and should be available free choice at all times year
round. It is especially important for bucks and wethers to ensure they are drinking plenty of water. Both Purina
and Sweetlix make a product just for goats and can be purchased at most feed stores.
A regular vaccination and worming schedule is a very important part to keeping a goat healthy. ALWAYS Check
with your vet first to set up a program that is best for you and your animal.
Goat's hooves grow rapidly so they should be trimmed as often as needed to prevent them from becoming cracked,
bent or infected. (see the NPGA website for illustrated instructions)
A frequent good grooming and delousing is necessary to help control lice and other external parasites A livestock
dust or a lice and tick powder or shampoo for cats and dogs can be used. Baths should be given only in warm
weather. All of these products can be found at a feed store or a pet store.
FYI- Goat lice are goat specific, therefore it will not transfer to any other family pet or family member.
Important- The biggest mistake people make with their goats is playing the butting game. Although it is a fun and
cute game when they are small, as they get older they will become more aggressive and hard to handle. To avoid
this, never grab at their head or horns. They will continue to butt and play with the other goats but will know that it
is not something they can play with their owners.
Dehorning- We choose to dehorn or disbud all of our babies. We feel it makes them less aggressive and better pets
especially around small children. A goat with horns is also very hard on your fencing. Not only do they love to rub
them on it but once they have put their heads through they can not get back out. Most times they have to be cut out.
Goats are a herd animal, therefore they are very social and prefer not to be alone. If you choose to
only have one please be sure to spend as much time with him as possible.
Pygmy Goat Basic Owners Manual
Pygmy Goat Management and Veterinary Care
Best Of Memo I II and III
(All can be purchased from the NPGA)
The information given may not necessarily work for everyone and has been provided as a guideline. These are just
some of my most frequently asked questions and is only the most very basic care your goat may need.
|BASIC CARE OF A PYGMY GOAT